Sometimes a sense of adventure requires very little sense at all.
The advent of spring is an amazing and wonderous thing in our little valley. Gone are the dark days of January, the frigid nights of February, and the blustery days of March. It’s April in Jackson Hole, and although the snow refuses to release it’s grasp upon the mountains, and the temperatures rarely reach into the fifties, it’s spring and time for release.
So the other day, my buddy Brad calls, and says he’s got the truck and an itchin’ for some fishin’.So, gathering up all the responsibility I can muster, I tell him that I’ve got an afternoon meeting, I’m behind on the weekly reports,And the computer is giving me fits, and I’ll probably be buried all weekend. “I’m right out front” he says. “Let me grab my coat” says I, and so it begins; another springtime Friday afternoon.
As I throw my fishin’ tackle behind the seat and clamber into the passenger side, I start this little encounter with my conscience. I already know whose going to win, but for whatever reason, I have to go through this meaningless exercise. It usually goes something like this… What I’m doing is no different from what tens of thousands of men are doing at this very minute. The only difference being location, apparel, and activity. Please allow me to explain.
Brad and I pull away in search of the browns, the cutthroats, and the Mackinaws, while our counterparts, in the city, are in search of their own catch. They are the lowlanders, and the dudes, many of whom will invade our paradise this summer, but for now they are abandoning their offices, and briefing their secretaries on which excuse to use in case the wife calls. While we cruise up the road sipping coffee and gnawing on a quick stop breakfast burritos, they’ll be grabbing a warm beer and a wrinkled up ballpark frank. We’ll soon be cinching up a pair of waders, and they’ll be loosening their ties and shedding their suits. After all, it’s Friday. It’s spring. If I need say more, you must be a girl. You see, It really doesn’t matter the type of fish or game you’re after. Whether it be a lake trout pulled from the icy waters of the Snake River, or a victory seized in the friendly confines of Wrigley field, the joy is not really in the outcome, it’s in the activity itself.
And so, we’re off. It’s time to hit the road, but first to the gas station. Then we’ve got to stop at Stone Drugs to buy a fishing license and worms. Yeh, that’s right. The same guy that sells suppositories, sells worms. Then we’ve got to stop at the ATM. I guess this is just in case the trout won’t take a debit card. I think that’s just about everything. We may make it out of town before dark.
Driving north out of Jackson is quit an awesome experience in itself. To the east is the elk refuge. It is the winter home to over five thousand. In addition to that, there are the buffalo, the rocky mountain bighorns, the coyotes, and a few deer and mountain lions thrown in the mix. As we crest the hill, above the fish hatchery, to the west is the first sight of the Tetons, a sight so awe-inspiring that first time visitors often slam on their brakes and stop in the middle of the road to take a picture. This practice, by the way, is frowned on by the locals, and local law enforcement. I must admit, however, that, having taken this road hundreds of times, I’m still awe-struck at the grandeur of these mountains.. Today, the weather couldn’t be better as a few wispy clouds dance across the peaks. The craggy, granite slopes and canyons cloaked in a deep coat of white glisten in the afternoon sun. An author once described the Tetons as “sharks teeth against the sky”. I guess I’d have to agree with him.
We drive across the miles of sagebrush flats on our way toward Moran junction. The landscape is dotted with elk. They’re in the midst of their spring migration, and every few miles we see them, sometimes a few and sometimes a few dozen, walking single file and heading north toward the high country. Some will settle for lesser elevations in and around Grand Teton National Park, some will press on to the lofty elevations of the Yellowstone thoroughfare. There they’ll spend their summer, before the crisp air and occasional snows of autumn signal their imminent return.
As we slow to make a left turn, toward the park, at Moran junction, I’m reminded of something I’d heard earlier that morning.”I hear #610 and her cubs are out of hibernation. I think she’s been seen up here around Oxbow Bend.” #610 is a designation given this particular Grizzly sow by the wildlife biologists. Her mother is #399. She’s also seen quite often, which is a rarity. The pictures you see of people feeding the bears from their cars were probably taken back in the sixties. Back then the dumps in the park were often near the campgrounds and the roads. Since then, Yellowstone has cleaned up their act by moving the dumps to more remote locations and making them and also the refuse containers near populated ares more bear secure. Hense, there’s very little bear activity and less “incidents”. This is a cute little term invented by the park service to ease the fears of those that might become upset by the term “mauling”.
We make our way down the winding road toward Oxbow bend in relative solitude. In a few months, this road will be frequented by wall to wall RVs and motor homes. For now, it pretty much belongs to the locals.As we round the corner, Mt. Moran comes into view. This summer, her majestic presence will be reflected in the waters of the Snake River, making this a favorite spot for photographers. Spring, however, has not yet made much of an impact on the ice hiding the river below it,nor have the Aspen trees along its banks begun to bloom. One more turn and we’re at Oxbow Bend. So, it appears is half of Jackson Hole. Evidently, I wasn’t the only one to hear about #610. There’s about twenty cars parked at the turnout. Cameras, tripods, and lenses of all kinds at the ready to capture any sighting, or even a glimpse of the great bear and her brood. So much for solitude. Having no interest in crowds of people, and no place to park for that matter, we opt to keep going. It’s only a few more miles upriver to the dam at Jackson Lake, and we’re thinkin’ the trout there might be hungry.
Pulling into the parking lot, it’s obvious that lake fishing will have to wait awhile. The lake is a solid sheet of white from the dam to the mountains on the other side. The only clear water to be seen is below the dam, and that’s where we’re headed. There’s only two cars in the lot. That’s the good news. The bad news is that one of the occupants is fishing our favorite eddy. This particular spot is a nice wide swirling pool about forty yards from the base of the dam. Its relative calm in the presence of the roaring waters passing through the flood gates make it a natural for some huge Mackinaws. As we pull on our waders and prepare our gear, we watch with envy our interloper as he seems to be catching a fish with every other cast. Nothing very big, but plenty large enough to make us sneer and grumble in his direction as we make our way to the rivers’ edge.
Brad has this little “sure-fire” method for catching fish. It’s reminiscent of a method my grandfather used to use. Although he doesn’t smoke, Brad lights up a cigar and blows on his lure before casting it. Grandpa used to chew tobacco. So he’d spit on his lure. I doubt that it helped, but the ones he landed were cross-eyed from the nicotine buzz. I moved downstream from Brads position about fifty or sixty yards, waded out about knee high and let ‘er fly. My first cast soared two thirds of the way to the other shore. It was then that I discovered that I should have probably put a little more line on the old Zebco when I replaced it the other day, (and by the way, shut up. don’t act like you’ve never done the same thing.)and there I was “Stren-less” looking at my empty spool, trying to think of a way to save face in this situation. I dabbled with the idea of continuing to cast for a little longer, hoping that Brad wouldn’t notice the lack of line and lure, but I gave up on that little diversion when I looked upstream at my old buddy, who was laughing hysterically at my plight so hard that he was choking on his cigar.
I stowed the rest of my gear in the truck and decided to take a little walk, while Brad continued fishing. On one hand I hoped that he’d catch a bunch of fish and have a great time. On the other, I hoped he’d snag three or four lures in the rocks and snap off the end of his new Eagle Claw fishing rod. “Forgive me Lord, but I’m only human.” I walked across the dam and down the road, each step taking me further from the roar of the water.The road follows the shoreline, and as I wander , I reach a point where the air becomes still and time becomes irrelevant. The lake is laid out before me like a table of white linen. Mt. Moran; rising abruptly from the other side. the stillness is broken by a quiet rustling in the willows no more than fifty feet to my right. It’s a moose resting peacefully, his gaze fixed on the same vista. We, together, share the moment; a peace, indescribable.
The truck comes rumbling down the road, and with its sound, the spell is broken. Brad has found me, and civilization awaits.As I climb in, I point out the moose, still in its resting place, undeterred by our presence. “Well, I got a few strikes, but their mouths are really soft, so no trout today” says Brad. “yeah I guess all the hard mouth fish were in that eddy the other guy was fishin.” My comeback was obviously a lot more funny to me ’cause all I got was a smirk. So, it’s back toward town we go. With a sense of melancholy, I observe that the mountains just aren’t the same through the rear view mirrors.
The road takes a gentle turn to our right, and Oxbow Bend is once more in sight. There’s only a couple of cars there now. Evidently, our favorite Grizz has come and gone, or she cancelled her performance altogether. We decide to stop anyway. This place is home to an abundant variety of wildlife, bears or no bears. Eagles, osprey, Geese, ducks, swans, and more, are plentiful here. As we pull into the turnoff, one of the two remaining cars pulls out, chugging its way toward Jackson. Brad deftly avoids two large pot holes, only to hit one, large enough to swallow a small catamaran, dead center. I wish I could convey to you the feeling one gets from spilled coffee as it saturates your inner thigh, but so far this story is G rated. The other car in the turnout is unoccupied, and I look to see if there are any tracks leading toward the river. As ridiculous as it sounds, It’s not out of the question for these people to cross the river in search of a photo-op on the bears’ own turf. Don’ be suprised.It happens all the time, with less than happy endings. Remember the term “incidents”?
To illustrate my point, or maybe because I like a good rabbit trail, let me tell you my favorite “stupid tourist story”. I was travelling through Yellowstone one summer afternoon. Surrounded by RVs, SUVs, Motor Homes, Trailers and vehicles of every shape and size, I was actually making pretty good time, when all at once, I came across the dreaded “buffalo jam”. This is what we call it when all traffic comes to a screeching halt. Doors fly open,people fly out, sanity is lost, all for the sake of an animal that has ventured out of the woods and is now visible from the road. It could be as photo worthy as a seven point bull elk, or as menial as a coyote looking for road kill. In this case, it’s a buffalo resting lazily beside a marsh. As I sit in my mounting frustration and self righteousness (or was it a Chevy Blazer), I notice one couple in particular, more adventurous than the rest, moving way too close. The husband was gesturing wildly toward his mate, and yelling in some kind of Asian dialect. The wife was peering through a camera lens, waving and yelling out directions. Suddenly, as if his brain was removed by aliens, he reaches out and grabs one of the behemoths horns with both hands, and tries to jerk it to it’s feet. Apparently, a standing buffalo makes a better picture in Korea. The result of this exercise should be obvious, unless your from Korea or California of course. The good news is that he spent the rest of his vacation being life flighted to a regional hospital with a ruptured spleen and various broken bones and contusions instead of the morgue. The bad news is that there weren’t more people there to witness the mos awesome buffalo launch I’ve ever seen. That sucker cleared twenty feet easily.
Brad pulls his binoculars from the truck as I scan the opposite side of the river. Hundreds of tracks in the snow make it obvious that #610 is indeed out of hibernation and has been working the area pretty hard. Although not in sight, the incessant sound of honking coming from the geese, swimming in open water just upriver, make it clear that she’s close by. We stood in silence surveying the scene for quite a while with our eyes focused on several paths we thought she might take. With no results, we were about to pack it in. Out of the corner of my eye I detect movement in the willows about a hundred yards downriver. I nudge Brad with my elbow, but it’s not necessary. He’s seeing the same thing tha I am. There she is. Massive in her girth, beautiful in her presence. There’s nothing in these mountains that conjures emotion quite like a grizzly. Awe, delight, fear, there all combined. It’s like your heart stops and so does time. As she lumbers up the opposing shoreline, the sunlight catches her fur, the color changing with each rolling step, the luster and sheen shifting with every move. She disappears into the willows as suddenly as she appeared. Brad and I look at each other and let out a breath that , it seems we’ve been holding for sometime without knowing it. “Nice” Brad utters. “Wow” is all that I come up with in reply. We look back to the willows hoping, but the moment’s past. She’s gone, but she left us with one of those moments that we’ll not soon forget; a memory that reminds us of why we live here.
As we head south, climbing the grade before the Snake River overlook, the sun finally disappears behind the Tetons. Deepening gray replaces the glistening white of their snow covered slopes. A country ballad plays softly on the radio as the lights of Jackson come into view, still far off, but a twinkling reminder that our adventure is fading away like the sun, now a glowing ember in the west. In reflection, I think of the things I should have done today. What would make a man so irresponsible. Why would I shirk my duties with such a frivolous trip. I sit pondering this dilemma for a moment, and only a moment, when the obvious answer comes to me….because it’s Friday.